A journey into western Damaraland
It had to be something out of the ordinary, with inherent qualities appealing to curiosity, a spirit of adventure and sporting ambition. It had to involve unspoiled nature and seclusion, and it definitely had to be something that could not be found in some or other travel guide or brochure. But above all it had to be in Namibia.
Take a close look at the map of Namibia and you will notice various blank spots with just about no roads or any signs of human habitation. There is absolutely nothing in writing available on these areas. One of them is Damaraland, the region around Brandberg Mountain and further north, up to the ephemeral Huab River and the Skeleton Coast in the west. If you want to travel these parts you need reliable to-
pographical maps, a GPS or a seasoned guide and at least two well equipped off-road vehicles.
For this type of excursion we have two special vehicles, the Pinzgauer 6x6. We want to start our tour at Orabis Gorge and drive west around Brandberg until we reach the dry riverbed of the Ugab. Orabis Gorge is just another 5 km away when we leave the official road and enter the unknown. On old tracks we slowly make our way along the foot of Brandberg. At close range the granite rock faces look even steeper and more forbidding. The mountain is totally bare, it is naked rock everywhere.
Small groups of springbok repeatedly leap about ahead of us, and now and then we spot a solitary Oryx antelope. Towards evening we arrive at a gorge of considerable length which cuts deep into the mountain mass. A large camel thorn tree at the far end of the gorge makes for an excellent camping site. Our GPS coordinates, confirm that we are in the Messum Gorge.
Mountain without waterWe unload the vehicles, pitch the tents and dig a hollow for our campfire. Soon enough all of us are happily munching away, enjoying dinner. We have decided to go on a one-day Brandberg hike the next morning. "If it is as hot tomorrow as it was today and yesterday we will probably curse the previous day the day after tomorrow", says Jürgen with an impish grin. He is referring to one of the basic problems that have to be dealt with when attempting to climb Brandberg. Since plants are scarce throughout the mountain mass, hikers are constantly exposed to the sun. The rock starts to warm up in the morning and by afternoon the ground is so hot that you can barely touch it. There are only a few small pools of water, but in most cases it cannot be consumed without reservation.
This means that hikers have to lug along huge supplies of drinking water.
We rise at the crack of dawn and after a quick breakfast set off deeper into Messum Valley, which seems to offer the best way up. It turns out to be utterly difficult. The relentless heat is getting to us, but in exchange we discover some rock paintings. The descent is a lot less arduous than the way up, not only because we are going downhill but also because we can retrace our steps.
A thirsty visitorThe closer we get to the Ugab River the more spectacular the scenery becomes. On one side there is the towering mass of Brandberg, on the other a maze of red table mountains. Between them we move along on deserted paths.
We have almost made it to the Ugab River when we come across Brandberg West, a deserted mine. An enormous crater was dug in the course of mining activities. A sharp and bumpy zigzag path leads down to the bottom of the crater. From the rim of the gigantic hole we see a small lake sparkling far below, inviting us to take a refreshing dip. It is not long before we arrive at the Ugab River where the local Damara people run a modest but practical camping site.
In the morning we plan to set out on a day's hike through the riverbed. Elephant and the rare black rhino can be found in this part of Damaraland. In the middle of the night we are rudely awakened by loud rumbling noises. No doubt, this must be an elephant. We grab our binoculars and make out the shape of a massive pachyderm as he tackles our water barrel.
A river hikeWe set off bright and early, walking in the dry riverbed. The sand is deep and this is anything but a leisurely stroll. Tall rocks line both sides of the Ugab. In places they close in, almost like a gorge, but in others they retreat somewhat and form large basins. A few kilometres downstream water is welling up from the ground and turns the entire breadth of the riverbed into an impassable bog. The surroundings are literally dotted with elephant tracks and dung.
As we pass another blind spot with tall reeds we suddenly hear rustling and crashing sounds on our right. A big elephant slowly pushes his head through the green curtain.
Wild Damara countryIt is time to say goodbye to this heavenly place. We labour through the fine river sand to get to the other side of the Ugab. On our way north, to the plateau, we have to drive through a number of narrow canyons. It is a laborious cross-country tour where all-wheel drive and differential gear have to be employed to inch forward. But after three hours we have made it, the rockfaces become lower and the valleys wider - we have reached the plateau. The view back across the maze of mountains and valleys is out of this world. Ahead lies a landscape with a few blades of grass as the only noteworthy vegetation.
Guided by GPS and our maps we continue to head northwest. The ruins of a deserted farmhouse are our next stop. Around midday the square shapes of buildings appear on the horizon. According to the map it is a place called Gai-As. On closer inspection we find that ruins are indeed all that is left. From here the terrain starts to dip again. We are approaching the Huab River. In contrast to the Ugab, the Huab is not hidden somewhere behind a maze of rocks and canyons, but lies exposed in rather open country. The riverbed is very wide and forms a vast gravel field. Then, suddenly, the track is gone. The sandy ground in front of us drops away steeply, two metres down.
It is already late in the afternoon and we still haven't found the right way. We decide to return to where we crossed the Huab in the morning. At least there is water for cleaning ourselves, even if it is slightly brackish, and there is a tree with a large crown. The landscape is absolutely beautiful.
Through the water once more The next morning after breakfast we contemplate our next steps. We decide to drive back part of the way on which we came the previous day and then continue east towards Twyfelfontein. Our first challenge is to get back onto the embankment which previously we came down with such flourish. The weight of the two "Pinzis" has already rounded the embankment nicely. We reckon that we have a realistic chance of getting up there by employing the 6x6 drive. The only little problem is that we have to drive through the water first. Since we have to take it slowly we basically have to tackle the gradient while almost stationary.
Driving through the water turns out to be no sweat at all, but feet had to get wet, of course. Retracing our tracks from the previous day we manage the way back in record time. The road to Twyfelfontein is used well enough and therefore easy to find. The landscape is impressive. But the closest we get to black rhino are unfortunately just a few tracks in the soft sand. In the late afternoon we arrive at Aba-Huab Camp near Twyfelfontein and feel quite out of place among all the people.
After eight days of total seclusion in the wild even a campsite with ten guests seems as busy as London's Trafalgar Square.
Dieter Reisenauer
[email protected]
www.outdoor-adventure-namibia.de
Take a close look at the map of Namibia and you will notice various blank spots with just about no roads or any signs of human habitation. There is absolutely nothing in writing available on these areas. One of them is Damaraland, the region around Brandberg Mountain and further north, up to the ephemeral Huab River and the Skeleton Coast in the west. If you want to travel these parts you need reliable to-
pographical maps, a GPS or a seasoned guide and at least two well equipped off-road vehicles.
For this type of excursion we have two special vehicles, the Pinzgauer 6x6. We want to start our tour at Orabis Gorge and drive west around Brandberg until we reach the dry riverbed of the Ugab. Orabis Gorge is just another 5 km away when we leave the official road and enter the unknown. On old tracks we slowly make our way along the foot of Brandberg. At close range the granite rock faces look even steeper and more forbidding. The mountain is totally bare, it is naked rock everywhere.
Small groups of springbok repeatedly leap about ahead of us, and now and then we spot a solitary Oryx antelope. Towards evening we arrive at a gorge of considerable length which cuts deep into the mountain mass. A large camel thorn tree at the far end of the gorge makes for an excellent camping site. Our GPS coordinates, confirm that we are in the Messum Gorge.
Mountain without waterWe unload the vehicles, pitch the tents and dig a hollow for our campfire. Soon enough all of us are happily munching away, enjoying dinner. We have decided to go on a one-day Brandberg hike the next morning. "If it is as hot tomorrow as it was today and yesterday we will probably curse the previous day the day after tomorrow", says Jürgen with an impish grin. He is referring to one of the basic problems that have to be dealt with when attempting to climb Brandberg. Since plants are scarce throughout the mountain mass, hikers are constantly exposed to the sun. The rock starts to warm up in the morning and by afternoon the ground is so hot that you can barely touch it. There are only a few small pools of water, but in most cases it cannot be consumed without reservation.
This means that hikers have to lug along huge supplies of drinking water.
We rise at the crack of dawn and after a quick breakfast set off deeper into Messum Valley, which seems to offer the best way up. It turns out to be utterly difficult. The relentless heat is getting to us, but in exchange we discover some rock paintings. The descent is a lot less arduous than the way up, not only because we are going downhill but also because we can retrace our steps.
A thirsty visitorThe closer we get to the Ugab River the more spectacular the scenery becomes. On one side there is the towering mass of Brandberg, on the other a maze of red table mountains. Between them we move along on deserted paths.
We have almost made it to the Ugab River when we come across Brandberg West, a deserted mine. An enormous crater was dug in the course of mining activities. A sharp and bumpy zigzag path leads down to the bottom of the crater. From the rim of the gigantic hole we see a small lake sparkling far below, inviting us to take a refreshing dip. It is not long before we arrive at the Ugab River where the local Damara people run a modest but practical camping site.
In the morning we plan to set out on a day's hike through the riverbed. Elephant and the rare black rhino can be found in this part of Damaraland. In the middle of the night we are rudely awakened by loud rumbling noises. No doubt, this must be an elephant. We grab our binoculars and make out the shape of a massive pachyderm as he tackles our water barrel.
A river hikeWe set off bright and early, walking in the dry riverbed. The sand is deep and this is anything but a leisurely stroll. Tall rocks line both sides of the Ugab. In places they close in, almost like a gorge, but in others they retreat somewhat and form large basins. A few kilometres downstream water is welling up from the ground and turns the entire breadth of the riverbed into an impassable bog. The surroundings are literally dotted with elephant tracks and dung.
As we pass another blind spot with tall reeds we suddenly hear rustling and crashing sounds on our right. A big elephant slowly pushes his head through the green curtain.
Wild Damara countryIt is time to say goodbye to this heavenly place. We labour through the fine river sand to get to the other side of the Ugab. On our way north, to the plateau, we have to drive through a number of narrow canyons. It is a laborious cross-country tour where all-wheel drive and differential gear have to be employed to inch forward. But after three hours we have made it, the rockfaces become lower and the valleys wider - we have reached the plateau. The view back across the maze of mountains and valleys is out of this world. Ahead lies a landscape with a few blades of grass as the only noteworthy vegetation.
Guided by GPS and our maps we continue to head northwest. The ruins of a deserted farmhouse are our next stop. Around midday the square shapes of buildings appear on the horizon. According to the map it is a place called Gai-As. On closer inspection we find that ruins are indeed all that is left. From here the terrain starts to dip again. We are approaching the Huab River. In contrast to the Ugab, the Huab is not hidden somewhere behind a maze of rocks and canyons, but lies exposed in rather open country. The riverbed is very wide and forms a vast gravel field. Then, suddenly, the track is gone. The sandy ground in front of us drops away steeply, two metres down.
It is already late in the afternoon and we still haven't found the right way. We decide to return to where we crossed the Huab in the morning. At least there is water for cleaning ourselves, even if it is slightly brackish, and there is a tree with a large crown. The landscape is absolutely beautiful.
Through the water once more The next morning after breakfast we contemplate our next steps. We decide to drive back part of the way on which we came the previous day and then continue east towards Twyfelfontein. Our first challenge is to get back onto the embankment which previously we came down with such flourish. The weight of the two "Pinzis" has already rounded the embankment nicely. We reckon that we have a realistic chance of getting up there by employing the 6x6 drive. The only little problem is that we have to drive through the water first. Since we have to take it slowly we basically have to tackle the gradient while almost stationary.
Driving through the water turns out to be no sweat at all, but feet had to get wet, of course. Retracing our tracks from the previous day we manage the way back in record time. The road to Twyfelfontein is used well enough and therefore easy to find. The landscape is impressive. But the closest we get to black rhino are unfortunately just a few tracks in the soft sand. In the late afternoon we arrive at Aba-Huab Camp near Twyfelfontein and feel quite out of place among all the people.
After eight days of total seclusion in the wild even a campsite with ten guests seems as busy as London's Trafalgar Square.
Dieter Reisenauer
[email protected]
www.outdoor-adventure-namibia.de
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