A Journey through Namibia IV

The gravel road from Sinclair Guest Farm, near Helmeringhausen, towards Sesriem and Sossusvlei should not, on any account, be rushed. The recently upgraded C27 route (formerly the D407 and D826 district roads) winds through unbelievable vistas of desert plains flanked by distant, shimmering mountains. Soft hues of red, pink, gold, beige, yellow, green, purple and black, combined with vast open landscapes of verdant veldt, all seemingly melting in a haze of heat, will surely dizzy your mind; it is an almost ethereal spectre. We take the opportunity to top the Land Rover's tank to the brim, always a sensible idea in this country of infinite distances and little habitation, at Betta Camping on the junction with the D707. Here in the midst of this mesmeric wilderness you'll discover not only a filling station, but also a small shop, a satellite linked payphone, and some lovely camping places. We then motor onwards now towards the mighty dune sea. Oryx and springbok calmly graze alongside the gravel-top, and we even see some black-backed jackal and many a pale chanting goshawk on our leisurely journey. We pass Tok-Tokkie Trails, at the beginning of the colossal Namib Rand Nature Reserve, from where Marc Durr leads visitors on fascinating, incredibly fulfilling walking trips through this magical desert landscape. And where better to hang your hat for a few days too, than at the Wolwedans Dune Lodge a few kilometres further on towards Sesriem and Sossusvlei. The outlook from the tented accommodation here, perched in the golden dunes, is mind-blowing.

But we're making for Sesriem, and the long established Sossusvlei Lodge, whose slogan 'gateway to the Namib' seems very apt. And we like what we find; the rooms, 45 in all, all have a very African flavour, with adobe walls, much canvas roofing and slate floors and most look out straight into the desert. Another advantage is that you're just 500m from the entrance gate into the Park, important since wagons roll at sunrise. We visited the Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR) campsite next door; we don't have any camping equipment with, but if we did, would make a beeline for site no 9 - as near nature as any, and shaded by a huge acacia tree. Permits for the park can be obtained from the office here, and we book up for the morning. There's a fuel station too. We enjoy a light lunch, and then it's off to the nearby Sesriem canyon. Extraordinary amounts of rain have fallen right across the whole of Namibia during the remarkable 2005/2006 rainfall season, and the Namib is certainly no exception. Everywhere is an almost uncharacteristic green, lush growth prompted by the unlikely but welcome precipitation. The winter sun is, of course, fast turning it all golden brown so the contrasts of colour are even more awesome. The canyon, some 30m deep and roughly one kilometre long, was formed several million years ago when the calcrete conglomerate was disturbed by continental uplift, allowing the Tsauchab river to carve out its incisive path. The name Sesriem refers to the six ox thongs (ses riems) that early settlers needed to knot together, in order to draw water from pools in the river below. This river, which long ago flowed all the way to the Atlantic Ocean, now finds its path blocked by the huge dunes at Sossusvlei, some 64 km to the west.

So next morning, at first light, we set off on the final stage to reach this extraordinary sea of sand dunes, which, reaching some 300m upwards, are reputed to be some of the world's highest. The access road was tarred several years ago, to prevent motorists leaving the deeply rutted and corrugated original tracks and thus causing an ever widening swathe of dust and destruction in this most fragile of environments. The black-top has not stood the test of time well, but major repairs and renovations are currently underway. After 45km of driving through a virtual corridor of dunes, not far from the river course and the many acacias - some long dead - standing sentinel to its progress, Dune 45 appears to the south. There is an access track to this huge dune, and several trees at its base. Such flora and the classic line of the dune ridge make this a highly photogenic spot. Not many calendars miss this shot! Quite a strenuous climb, even if the sand is firmer early in the day. Finally you reach the 2WD car park, with some shade and toilet facilities. If you don't have a 4x4, don't attempt to go any further, for the deep sandy track will surely ensnare you. Either walk the final 5km to the vlei itself or take one of the regular 4WD shuttle buses. Parking is provided there too, nearby the vlei itself. And we are privileged indeed, for there is water lying in the vlei. The stupendous wet weather this year means that it is not a dry white pan of cracked clay that we encounter at the foot of this amazing almost circular sea of dunes, but a lake. The river water rarely reaches this far, once only perhaps in several years or more, but now here it may remain for several months. Amazing! We spend some time engrossed in these enchanting scenes, then make a plan. We'll have a nice midday siesta whilst the sun is at its highest and hottest, and later climb up along the biggest dune crest to enjoy this simply spectacular panorama in a gentler late afternoon light. We are not to be disappointed, for Sossusvlei grabs our hearts and our minds, at once surreal and sensational. Our journey through Namibia just gets better and better.