And now for something completely different ...
Coming soon to a cinema near you, as they say, will be an Eric Valli film, made for Dauphin Films France 3 Cinema, called The Trail (La Piste). Just now completed, release details are still awaited but footage of this piece by the photographer turned film-maker, best known for his work in the Himalayas, was shot in Namibia. It will apparently be based on the reminiscences of the character central to the screenplay. One location, in particular, was on a farm just outside Kamanjab in the north-western Kunene region of this country. A rustic dwelling was ingeniously constructed amongst huge granite boulders strewn in the midst of the Mopane veldt so typical of the area. Two timbered floors of real open plan living with walkways between and around, a vestige of roofing but basically open to the elements, a sentinel over nature. And farmer Japie Burger was so taken by this piece of virtual living on the rocks that he waived the normal location fee in favour of retaining the set, this extraordinary boulder house.
After the departure of the film crews, the Burger family set about embellishing the impressive, but albeit raw structure into a resting place for adventurous travellers keen to really be at one with nature, to necessarily bring the dwelling place into line with the exacting and laudable Namibia Tourism Board (NTB) inspection standards, and further to give guests some desirable mod cons. The NTB registration should all be in place by early 2006 and the "Onjewewe House In The Rocks" will then be open for business. The name, by the way, stems from a Herero word meaning "the well (or pit) with good water". And in the spectacular but harsh paradise that is north-western Namibia, a reasonable supply of borehole water allows farmers the opportunity to make a living; thus on his farm Cauas Okawa (in Herero "place of elephants"), 20 km east of Kamanjab on the C40 gravel road direction Outjo, Japie Burger is now an established and successful karakul sheep farmer and so has the wherewithal to also diversify into tourism, notably the Oasis Guest House in Kamanjab itself.
And that's not the whole story; for daughter Debbie has been managing the flourishing guest house up to now. Seven double and a family room provide accommodation for 18 guests in very attractively decorated and furnished quarters, a tribute to Debbie's understated designer qualities. The Oasis restaurant, open to all, provides both light lunches and a full a la carte dinner menu, although any large groups will enjoy an evening buffet. The bar inside the Oasis has very much become a focal point in the town, both for inhabitants, guests and travellers just passing through. Duncan Gilchrist, celebrated tour guide and formerly with Nature Conservation within the Ministry of Tourism and Environment (MET), is Debbie's partner and has been known to sup an ale or two here too. On the family farm, Duncan has set up a pleasantly pastoral camp site and looks after some of the safari groups that pass through on organised tours. He also himself owns and operates Onamiva Safaris - another Herero word, meaning "vast (desert) landscapes" - specialising in tours to Damaraland and the Kaokoveld. Once the "film house" is up and running, Debbie plans to leave the day to day running of the Guest House to her trusty number two, Johann Hennig, allowing her to concentrate on looking after guests in the new bush location.
Up to four people can stay in this dramatic and remarkable enclave amongst the boulders. Wooden walkways lead you from the ground to the first floor living area, for the main part furnished as a lounge suspended almost in the breeze. Leading from this subtly created melange of sofas and easy chairs, sideboards and dining tables, there is a mezzanine kitchen, with running water, a gas hotplate, plenty of cupboards and cutlery, but most amazingly a fully grown tree thriving happily and physically undisturbed by its carefully sited surroundings. Turn another way and you find the second bedroom, complete and en-suite. Follow the breeze and you arrive on a huge deck, bedecked with shade umbrellas and surrounded by these huge stones. A few steps down and a plunge pool awaits, with its own grassed surrounds. Suitably refreshed, you might want to make use of the braai area with the view, again! A further unusual timbered path spirals around the granite up to the master bedroom on the next level. What a beautifully furnished, idyllic romantic spot in which to rest your head. Also intriguing are the en-suite facilities, squeezed into crevices in the stone. The bedroom vistas will surely captivate you, just as they will if you climb further on less rigid catwalks that extend to the very top of the boulders. A myriad of such cleverly constructed boards lead to any number of platforms, where you can literally find your own space, and perhaps your very soul.
Overall there is perhaps not another place quite like Onjewewe. As darkness falls, there are a myriad of medieval torches, that once burning brightly, will light the way for guests, even low key solar lighting around the pool. We found a freezer, on gas, useful for some. 'Donkeys', those small wood burning boilers, provide the warmer side of hot and cold. Nature provides the air conditioning. Should it rain, and it does just occasionally, a multitude of raffia type blinds can protect many orifices, but most would probably just rejoice in the rain. On matters of sensibility and safety, Debbie and her father will not let this sensational place without a custodian present; so either herself, or in the case of organised groups, their tour guide, will be on hand the whole time to assist with any eventuality. Larger groups of five and over will be able to stay over too, probably using sleeping bags on the huge deck. Debbie herself will be happy to cook any or all meals on site should guests so wish. Visitors can wander freely or take an organised drive around the farm. On a working farm such as this, game is not predictable, but you might be fortunate enough to spot any of the following: Elephant, Giraffe, Oryx, Kudu, Duiker, Steenbok or even the tiny Damara Dik-Dik. Maybe you'll visit the nearby site of some rock art or, best of all, meet up with another member of the inimitable Burger brigade. This time, Jaco - Debbie's brother. Jaco too lives on the farm, farming real African cattle, Ngunis. But this guy is not cut from everyday cloth; he's involved in far more. Jaco runs the Jakaronga Himba Project which as part of its wide remit aims to increase and update Himba knowledge of farming practices, including ear marking presently, and to teach them better grazing management skills. Jaco speaks the Ovahimba language fluently, has taken some seventeen orphaned Himba children under his wing and has been dubbed the white Himba. Several documentaries have featured him and his vast knowledge of these local peoples.
A small sign by the entrance states carpe diem, seize the day. Do just that, for while it's unlikely there will ever be a dull moment at Onjewewe, it's almost certain that a most wonderful imprint that will be left in your memory. A very special place.
Fact File
All bookings for either Onjewewe House In The Rocks or Oasis Guest House should be made to the guest house direct. Tel +264 67 330032. E-mail [email protected]. The guest oasis is situated in the centre of Kamanjab, a few metres from the 4 way stop. Visitors to Onjewewe, some 20 kms distant, should please report to the guest house first.
Rates are N$250 per person self catering at Onjewewe, reducing to N$150 p.p. for groups of 5 or more. Bed and Breakfast accommodation at the Oasis is N$ 420 for a double, N$270 for a single. Further meals and all activities, rates on request. Please note : Debbie Burger will be able to advise when guests can first stay at Onjewewe following completion of the NTB registration.
After the departure of the film crews, the Burger family set about embellishing the impressive, but albeit raw structure into a resting place for adventurous travellers keen to really be at one with nature, to necessarily bring the dwelling place into line with the exacting and laudable Namibia Tourism Board (NTB) inspection standards, and further to give guests some desirable mod cons. The NTB registration should all be in place by early 2006 and the "Onjewewe House In The Rocks" will then be open for business. The name, by the way, stems from a Herero word meaning "the well (or pit) with good water". And in the spectacular but harsh paradise that is north-western Namibia, a reasonable supply of borehole water allows farmers the opportunity to make a living; thus on his farm Cauas Okawa (in Herero "place of elephants"), 20 km east of Kamanjab on the C40 gravel road direction Outjo, Japie Burger is now an established and successful karakul sheep farmer and so has the wherewithal to also diversify into tourism, notably the Oasis Guest House in Kamanjab itself.
And that's not the whole story; for daughter Debbie has been managing the flourishing guest house up to now. Seven double and a family room provide accommodation for 18 guests in very attractively decorated and furnished quarters, a tribute to Debbie's understated designer qualities. The Oasis restaurant, open to all, provides both light lunches and a full a la carte dinner menu, although any large groups will enjoy an evening buffet. The bar inside the Oasis has very much become a focal point in the town, both for inhabitants, guests and travellers just passing through. Duncan Gilchrist, celebrated tour guide and formerly with Nature Conservation within the Ministry of Tourism and Environment (MET), is Debbie's partner and has been known to sup an ale or two here too. On the family farm, Duncan has set up a pleasantly pastoral camp site and looks after some of the safari groups that pass through on organised tours. He also himself owns and operates Onamiva Safaris - another Herero word, meaning "vast (desert) landscapes" - specialising in tours to Damaraland and the Kaokoveld. Once the "film house" is up and running, Debbie plans to leave the day to day running of the Guest House to her trusty number two, Johann Hennig, allowing her to concentrate on looking after guests in the new bush location.
Up to four people can stay in this dramatic and remarkable enclave amongst the boulders. Wooden walkways lead you from the ground to the first floor living area, for the main part furnished as a lounge suspended almost in the breeze. Leading from this subtly created melange of sofas and easy chairs, sideboards and dining tables, there is a mezzanine kitchen, with running water, a gas hotplate, plenty of cupboards and cutlery, but most amazingly a fully grown tree thriving happily and physically undisturbed by its carefully sited surroundings. Turn another way and you find the second bedroom, complete and en-suite. Follow the breeze and you arrive on a huge deck, bedecked with shade umbrellas and surrounded by these huge stones. A few steps down and a plunge pool awaits, with its own grassed surrounds. Suitably refreshed, you might want to make use of the braai area with the view, again! A further unusual timbered path spirals around the granite up to the master bedroom on the next level. What a beautifully furnished, idyllic romantic spot in which to rest your head. Also intriguing are the en-suite facilities, squeezed into crevices in the stone. The bedroom vistas will surely captivate you, just as they will if you climb further on less rigid catwalks that extend to the very top of the boulders. A myriad of such cleverly constructed boards lead to any number of platforms, where you can literally find your own space, and perhaps your very soul.
Overall there is perhaps not another place quite like Onjewewe. As darkness falls, there are a myriad of medieval torches, that once burning brightly, will light the way for guests, even low key solar lighting around the pool. We found a freezer, on gas, useful for some. 'Donkeys', those small wood burning boilers, provide the warmer side of hot and cold. Nature provides the air conditioning. Should it rain, and it does just occasionally, a multitude of raffia type blinds can protect many orifices, but most would probably just rejoice in the rain. On matters of sensibility and safety, Debbie and her father will not let this sensational place without a custodian present; so either herself, or in the case of organised groups, their tour guide, will be on hand the whole time to assist with any eventuality. Larger groups of five and over will be able to stay over too, probably using sleeping bags on the huge deck. Debbie herself will be happy to cook any or all meals on site should guests so wish. Visitors can wander freely or take an organised drive around the farm. On a working farm such as this, game is not predictable, but you might be fortunate enough to spot any of the following: Elephant, Giraffe, Oryx, Kudu, Duiker, Steenbok or even the tiny Damara Dik-Dik. Maybe you'll visit the nearby site of some rock art or, best of all, meet up with another member of the inimitable Burger brigade. This time, Jaco - Debbie's brother. Jaco too lives on the farm, farming real African cattle, Ngunis. But this guy is not cut from everyday cloth; he's involved in far more. Jaco runs the Jakaronga Himba Project which as part of its wide remit aims to increase and update Himba knowledge of farming practices, including ear marking presently, and to teach them better grazing management skills. Jaco speaks the Ovahimba language fluently, has taken some seventeen orphaned Himba children under his wing and has been dubbed the white Himba. Several documentaries have featured him and his vast knowledge of these local peoples.
A small sign by the entrance states carpe diem, seize the day. Do just that, for while it's unlikely there will ever be a dull moment at Onjewewe, it's almost certain that a most wonderful imprint that will be left in your memory. A very special place.
Fact File
All bookings for either Onjewewe House In The Rocks or Oasis Guest House should be made to the guest house direct. Tel +264 67 330032. E-mail [email protected]. The guest oasis is situated in the centre of Kamanjab, a few metres from the 4 way stop. Visitors to Onjewewe, some 20 kms distant, should please report to the guest house first.
Rates are N$250 per person self catering at Onjewewe, reducing to N$150 p.p. for groups of 5 or more. Bed and Breakfast accommodation at the Oasis is N$ 420 for a double, N$270 for a single. Further meals and all activities, rates on request. Please note : Debbie Burger will be able to advise when guests can first stay at Onjewewe following completion of the NTB registration.
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