Dining out under the stars at Sossusvlei

Guests at both the renowned, upmarket Sossusvlei Lodge and its younger, middle market sister establishment, Sossusvlei Desert Camp, nearby have of course been drawn to this particularly scenic part of the Namib Desert by the promise of visiting the spectacular, indeed awesome vistas presented by the massive dune sand seas of Sossusvlei and the astonishing, otherworldly appearance of the adjacent Dead Vlei. However, both attractions stand within the century old proclaimed Namib Naukluft Park under the custodianship of the Ministry of Environment and Tourism (MET) and their strictly enforced regulations only allow access by the general public and visiting tourists during the hours between sunrise and sunset.

Visitors may well be rightly feeling a little drained after both a pretty early start to the day and by the soul-wrenching, mind-numbing experiences fashioned by their visit to Sossusvlei itself, but they are surely likely to have gained an appetite too. To this end, Sossusvlei Lodge has developed an al-fresco dining experience on their magnificent, star struck terrace that will surely reawaken diverse senses once again.
Where should this restaurant story therefore begin? Well, with the starters of course! The lodge's position in a remote corner of the Namib does not lend itself ideally to having copious supplies of fresh produce for the kitchens, but Taleni Africa Tourism Holdings, the group that owns the respective premises, has long since made a plan, and deliveries appear like clockwork. So to begin, diners are tempted by a huge table groaning under the weight of all manner of salads, cold meats, fresh breads and even a home-made daily soup tureen. Let the feast begin, but tilt your head back and you'll likely catch a glimpse of The Southern Cross, Orion's Belt, Scorpio or the Cape Clouds softly illuminating the clear night sky. Can it get better than this? Yes, time for mains! And this is where the Head Chef Samuel 'Rocky' Nainda, together with Monica Davids and their busy team of cooks really come to the fore; the main course is based on three separate braai tables, gas fired for instant cookability.

But just let the choices sink in: Game cuts include Kudu, Oryx, Zebra, Warthog, Impala, Ostrich, Hartebeest, Eland and Springbok. Then there are the more regular domestic meats, Beef (steaks or kebabs), Lamb (chops), Pork (chops or kebabs), and Chicken (breasts or kebabs). Fish lovers have an equally incredible choice: Kingklip, Hake, Angel fish, Swordfish, Salmon, Butter fish, Tuna, Yellowtail, Sole, Calamari, Steenbras and even Crocodile tails. Now I've listed everything, because is there anywhere in Namibia that would offer such a choice? It may be that not every item listed is on the tables every night, but there is always a huge choice, and these guys know how to cook everything, all bespoke and just how you like it. There is naturally an enormous choice of different cooked vegetables, laid out on a self serve basis; but there is one surprise still to come. A mass of more fresh ingredients are available to choose from, for the Sossusvlei stir-fry! The skills of the chefs, the addition of noodles and all manner of sauces and chopped herbs and spices make this perhaps the must-have accompaniment to your chosen meat or fish. Sensational!
There are plenty of waitrons on hand to provide bar service and clear away promptly and efficiently; on cooler winter nights a plethora of patio heaters will ensure your warmth too. And we're not finished yet, for another table is now laid out with an amazing and varied choice of desserts, fresh fruit and a magnificent cheese board. Coffee, tea and hot chocolate abounds too. And all for just N$ 170, 00 - it's simply astonishing value. Mind you in such a sensational setting, the food was bound to be a bonus anyway!
E-mail: [email protected]
Web: www.sossusvleilodge.com

Neil Digby-Clarke