Discovering Damaraland

ON departure from Windhoek my instructions were to write about Damaraland as though I'd never been there before. Easy, since I hadn't yet had the opportunity to visit this corner of our amazing country. But what awaited me was much more than I'd dared to imagine: desolate, ethereal and hauntingly beautiful landscapes, a photographer?s paradise, an open history book for geologists. And the ideal breakaway if you don't want to run into any other people.

Taking us on this journey of discovery was Klaus Schindler, co-owner of the Swakopmund-based Charly's Desert Tours. Ours was to be a treat, since Klaus rarely has the chance to undertake these trips anymore. He says Damaraland is his absolute favorite area to visit.

Our four-day excursion kicked off at the pick-up in Swakopmund with the first stop at Mile 108 - the last place to fill up before entry into the Skeleton Coast Park. For entry into the park, a permit is required, which, if you?re just passing through, can be bought at the Ugab River gate on the C34, or at the Springbokwasser gate on the D3245 if you are entering on the western border. Both entrances mark the start of the Skeleton Coast and since 1971 it has been protected as the Skeleton Coast National Park, which stretches up to the Kunene River at the Angolan border. It is important to note though that visitors must reach the entry gate before 15:00 to be allowed into the park or you will be turned away. Also note that roads are gravel, so it is advisable to stick to the speed limit.

A few kilometres north of the Ugab lies the wreck of the SW Seal, a small vessel that made the Skeleton Coast its final resting place in 1976. We stopped here to take a few pictures and have a light lunch, before taking to the road again.

Shortly after leaving the park at Springbokwasser, Klaus took us off the main district road and our adventure truly began - definitely the road less traveled!

Looking left and right there are just rocks where ever you look - small, large, square, round - and these rocky plains stretch as far as the eye can see. It literally looks as if the rocks came down from heaven. In the distance we notice an animal that clearly is well adapted to this very harsh environment: an Oryx who just waited long enough to see who was disturbing his peace, before easily jogging off over the rocky terrain.

But there are more than just rocks to see: scattered along the road are one of the Namib's most awe inspiring plants: the Welwitschia. I immediately asked Klaus to stop the car to take a couple of photos. It was also the first time I had such a close encounter with a living organism that is obviously so much older than a few human generations. Although some are decidedly weather worn, others are beautiful examples. Klaus tells us that the first Welwitschia was discovered by Austrian botanist Friedrich Welwitsch (1806-1872) in 1860 in the southern Angolan area of the Namib. This amazing plant can survive under the harshest conditions with a minimum amount of water. Most impressive is that it can grow as old as 2000 years. Even though it often looks as if the plant has many leaves, it really only has two. The surface that the leaves cover helps the plant to survive at a soil temperature as high as 65 "°C. The leaves absorb water from fog through millions of stomata on the surface.

The female plant can produce up to 10 000 seeds and we were lucky to see many in bloom. Most seeds only have a small chance of germinating: in truth it is doubtful that one-hundredth of 1% of all seeds produced germinate and develop into a mature plant.

Further on we discover a couple of Moringa trees that look a little lost in the rocky hills. Some look rather battered and Klaus tells us that elephants were responsible for the damage. He is quick to add that, because of the rocky terrain, elephants aren't very fond of this particular area.

One desert-adapted plant that can often be seen dotting the landscape is the Euphorbia. Many different types can be seen in the area, but some can grow to about 3 metres high. A characteristic of the plant is the white sap that oozes out when a leaf is damaged. The stem is divided into large numbers of thick branches and segmented joints. Locally known as the Gifboom (poisoned tree), it grows in the driest and hottest parts of South Africa and in Namibia. In Namibia the white juice of the Euphorbia virosa is mixed with that of Adenium boehmiammum and used as an arrow-poison to hunt small animals.

Just before the sun starts its gradual descent in the west, Klaus finds us a camping spot. Tents are pitched, and Werner, our chef, quickly and efficiently, starts preparing a delicious dinner. Usually this is the work of the tour guide. Later the heavens are ablaze with a million stars, and while we're enjoying a relaxing glass of wine around the fire, we get a quick course in astronomy. Now we also know where to look for the Southern Cross.

The next day though, there is no sign of the clear night we enjoyed the previous evening: our first morning saw us awaken to a world shrouded in mist. However, by the time we had had a hearty breakfast and a quick wash with the warm water Werner had prepared, the mist had disappeared and we hit the road again.

Klaus takes us up to a vantage point from where we can see the Ugab Valley and mountains. He says the tour guides describe them as the ?zerissene Berge", as it was noted on maps of long ago.

Here and there dune sand has swept up against the mountains. Klaus is quick to remind us that we are still in the desert. It's along these same mountains that we find rocks that shine. "Oh," says Klaus, "that's because animals rub up against them when they have an itch!"

Around the next corner, nestled between the rugged mountains, we find an oasis - just a little water left though - which too will disappear soon and then only a few reeds will remain. The water came down, in the direction of the Ugab River, as recently as January.

Then we are off to a place called Gai-as where there are signs of life that date back to the fifteenth century. According to those in the know, this mysterious place was inhabited by the pastoral nomads of the central Namib and going by the collection of semi-circular ruins, this was quite a big group. A little up the hill are a few other circular dwellings, but archaeologists found them to be just about 50 years old and used by hunters to prey on the game visiting the waterhole a short way off. This particular waterhole, which according to Klaus, is one of six of its kind in the Namib, has good drinking water that keeps the surrounding grass wet which in turn is excellent for fattening up hungry antelope.

Lunch is prepared at a place tour guides call Sandcastles, where they often camp and also enjoy lunch on day trips. It is here where he beckons us over to show us a plant known as Elephant's Foot - apparently more rare than the Welwitschia, but which, amazingly, is related to the granadilla. Though it doesn't look remotely anything like an elephant's foot, but more like a type of porcupine, this unique plant is found only in Damaraland and on the southern areas of Kaokoland.

Next stop is what Klaus calls his version of the Petrified Forest. As is the case with the Petrified Forest about 50 km west of Khorixas, a number of petrified trees lie on a bed of sandstone. While only time will tell how many trunks are still embedded, some are completely exposed because the sandstone surrounding them has eroded. According to archeologists, it is thought that they were carried here as logs by a river, some 250 million years ago, and became stranded on a sandbank. Sand was again deposited around the trunks, creating ideal conditions for the wood molecules to be replaced by silica molecules, and so become petrified. The trees are from the specie Corditis.

North of this terrain lies the Huab River, famous for sightings of desert-adapted elephants and rhinos. A quick trip up and down a short distance of the river yielded only cattle, Kudu and Oryx. The footprints of a mother and baby elephant did however lend credence to said sightings.

What camping safari to this area would be complete without a flat tyre? This fate hit us about a kilometre from our camp site for the night. Keeping in mind that one flat is nothing compared to the eight Klaus had to mend on his last trip to Kaokoland, I was happy to see there were at least two spares. Still, all tour guides have to be well prepared for excursions in this area, especially considering the thousands of razor sharp rocks lying about.

On the morning of day three we headed back in the direction of the Ugab, and what an amazing change of scenery. In contrast with the flatness of the Huab area, the Ugab area is surrounded by large massifs towering above your head. The canyon we took, one feeding artery to the mighty river, is aptly called the Zebra Canyon by Charly's guides. This canyon is made up of metamorphic marble, in other words it has gone through a process of change. Now decorating the walls are black and white marble stripes that surprise the eyes and boggle the mind.

Also in this canyon is a camelthorn tree more than a thousand years old. While this is in no way odd, the huge thorns on this specific tree are really eye catching - they are as big as an adult's finger!

As soon as we leave the canyon and travel a few kilometres down the river, Klaus tells us he has a surprise. Up over the river bank, over a hill and suddenly another canyon: Charly's canyon. It is at this point where the Ugab

River enters the Skeleton Coast Park.

We head back upstream in Charly's canyon and come across a wall that seems to be almost vertical. As soon as it rains, Klaus tells us, the wall, that now only has a few desert-adapted plants sticking out here and there, turns into what he can at best describe as the hanging gardens of Babylon.

After a quick lunch break we head west to the Omukuruwaro - the Brandberg massif. This giant granite monolith is Namibia's highest mountain. Standing at about 2 500 m above sea level and located on the flat Namib gravel plains, on a clear day the massif can be seen from a great distance. But the Brandberg is famous for more than being just situated in a beautiful area. While being regarded as a spiritual site of significance by the ancient Bushman tribes, its biggest claim to fame is the White Lady rock painting. This painting was first discovered by Reinard Maack in 1918. The painting itself dates back about 20 000 years. While it is called the White Lady, all signs point to it actually being a figure representing a young male priest or witch doctor who is wearing body paint.

Because we approached from the west, we didn't have time to visit the famous painting, but did have the chance to see various other paintings, including a black baboon. While Klaus says it is not rare to find paintings of baboons, it being black is rather unusual. More that 43 000 individual paintings can be found at about a thousand different places at the Brandberg.

Besides the paintings, the Brandberg is also home to some stunning desert flora and even though the area is quite inhospitable, it is also home to a large diversity of wildlife. The number of animals, however, is small simply because the climate cannot support large populations.

After our trip to the Brandberg, Klaus decided we should overnight at the Save the Rhino Restcamp, which is not too far from the massif. First though we made a stop at the Brandberg-West Mine, an old worked-out tin mine which operated from 1946 to 1980. Remnants of the original buildings, such as offices and living quarters, can still be see today. A visit here requires utmost care, since no safety mechanisms are in place.

While the drive to the Save the Rhino (STR) Camp is not very attractive, the site itself is a relief to many a weary traveler. Here campers can look forward to a warm shower, albeit rather au naturel. But wonderful after three days on the dusty road!

The Save the Rhino Trust was established to protect the desert adapted black rhino surviving in the remote and arid regions of northwest Namibia. In the early 1980's a savage slaughter of wildlife was taking place and as rhino populations crashed and extinction loomed, a group of worried citizens decided to start a trust with the aim of repairing the damage. Since then poaching has dramatically decreased and rhino numbers have more than doubled. With the help of local communities, tribal chiefs and headmen, volunteers and government conservation officials, these animals are once again roaming freely in the area.

Upon entering the camp, visitors are handed an information sheet mentioning many interesting facts. And overnighting is extremely light on the pocket. The only thing they do request is that you don't leave rubbish behind: "take only photos and leave only footprints!"

On our fourth and final day, we woke to enjoy a leisurely breakfast before packing up and heading back to Swakopmund through the West Coast Recreational Area, which is the 250 km stretch of coastline extending from Swakopmund to the Ugab River. Because this section consists mainly of gravel plains, it is very sensitive.

And so our journey comes to an end.

Damaraland is definitely one of the most fascinating regions in Namibia that includes massive stretches of deserted beaches littered with a few shipwrecks, amazing geological features and many rock paintings. One often wonders how anything can survive in this very harsh area, and yet you are always surprised to see the greenery poking out from beneath stones and small insects rummaging around. A place not to be missed.

However, it is highly recommended that you do not leave the main roads. A visit to most of the above-mentioned places can only be undertaken by a tour guide who knows the area well. Many a guest has ended their visit with memories of being lost. Thus, if you would like to see a bit more than the average guest, we recommend the services of Charly's Desert Tours. Also, we do want you and your friends to return to Namibia.

If you do choose to do a self drive tour, always be aware of your surroundings and the road surface, but most importantly, do not stray from a demarcated road. Adhere to the speed limits applicable to various roads. Tarred roads can usually be traveled on at higher speeds than gravel roads. However, since you might not be as familiar with conditions prevailing on some back roads, the Roads Authority recommends a speed limit of 60 kilometres per hour on gravel roads with a surface of small, loose gravel, irrespective of the allowed speed limit. On roads with a hard, smooth gravel surface, a speed of 80 kilometres per hour should be maintained. Corrugated gravel roads should be traveled with great care since the vehicle can literally bounce all over the road depending on your speed.

Remember to bring along a good supply of sun cream with the highest UV factor, a reliable torch, extra batteries for your camera, a detailed map of the territory and of course a sense of adventure.

In Damaraland it is totally impossible to choose a favourite photographic location, simply because there are so many beautiful places to capture on film. What I did find very interesting though are the wonderful rock formations to be found around just about every corner: from the rocks eroded by wind to look like pages of a book, the stunning black and white marble formations in Zebra Canyon, to the hidden niches of the Brandberg.

It is important to keep in mind though that the best time to take photographs is in the early morning and then again in the late afternoon. While photographs taken in the middle of the day tend to be over-exposed, sometimes you have no other choice. The best option then is to get as close to your subject as possible.

Remember to take enough extra film along because there are no shops along the road in Damaraland. Also consider the amount of dust in the air. Make sure you camera is covered when not in use and cleaned often.

The most basic rule of thumb when taking photos is to firstly, find something interesting, secondly to position yourself in the best possible light and thirdly (and if necessary), to wait until conditions are ideal.

Charly's Desert Tours adhere to a strict policy of not making new tracks in this fragile environment. While the company can cater for groups of up to sixty for day trips, they only take very small groups - a maximum of three cars - on longer camping excursions. They undertake trips all over Namibia and are specialists in areas that are not generally visited by other companies. While they cater specifically for tailor- made tours, Klaus says they prefer to remain outside national parks, simply because they find there are other more beautiful areas and much more to see outside parks. Most of their guests prefer to escape from the hustle and bustle and other people because they live in big cities.

Klaus, who has 12 years experience in the field and has lived in Namibia for 20 years, says all his guides are accredited by the Namibian Academy for Tourism and Hospitality and are very knowledgeable about their environment.

Charly's was opened by Charly "Wüstenfuchs" Gürtel in 1966 in a time that tourism wasn't really big in Namibia. He died in 1984.

Charly's Desert Tours can be contacted at tel. +9264 (64) 404341, fax +9264

(64) 404821 or [email protected]