Discovering Shipwrecks & Diamonds (Part 3)

By Erwin Leuschner
The east wind started pounding our tent early in the morning again. Luckily it died down somewhat by breakfast time and once we left the Namab Tented Camp, it has almost completely disappeared. Thereafter the weather is perfect.

Once again we all find ourselves in our trusty Land Cruiser. We haven’t given him a name yet, but “Trusty” seems about right. First off we turn south. Len, our driver, takes us along the beach. The owner of Namab Tented Camp, Pieter Willem van Zyl, wants to show us a “special place”.
P.W., as he is better known, is cool and collected - if you stick by the rules; and he is very strict when it comes to rules in his concession area. One thing in particular still sticks. “I only have three rules,” P.W. tells us. “First: Stay in the track; Second: Stay in the track; Third: Follow rules one and two”.
Seems simple enough.

There is good reason for his insistence on not heading off on your own. Meob Bay is one of the most pristine places on earth. Were vehicle tracks litter countless other beach areas, Meob Bay only has a few and Len and P.W. know each one by heart. They don’t need a GPS to navigate this desolate area. It’s quite beautiful to behold. P.W. takes us south to a bay he calls “Afklimbaai” (climb off bay) and we quickly realize why it’s called this. In the bay, he takes us up a large dune where we are treated to the most amazing view. Here we can truly witness how the dunes meet the icy Atlantic.

After taking in the breathtaking view, we head back and find some of the guides accompanying us on our trip fishing on the beach. As a treat, we all get to catch a fish, but once again P.W. takes no nonsense. Only catch and release is allowed in his concession area and the few fish that were caught and kept, will serve as dinner - nothing more is taken. While fishing, we experience something truly extraordinary: We can literally spot some big fish swimming in the waves. It’s a sight you only see here. This place truly is untouched and P.W. wants to keep it that way.

Usually the Shipwrecks and Diamonds Tour ends today. But for us an exception is made. We spend one more night at the tented camp, before heading back to civilization the next day. We leave early and drive back up the beach. Along the way we take a quick lunch break at the Eduard Bohlen shipwreck – arguably one of the most famous shipwrecks as it currently lies about 600 meters inland from the shore. The Eduard Bohlen crashed ashore in 1909 and has since been covered by a lot of sand. Soon, very little will be left so see.
Afterwards we head to Conceptionwater, where an 80 kilometer water pipeline was constructed to serve the three mining towns. Here a hut stands, which served as shelter for police officers and customs officials from 1910. Initially the hut served as mortuary in Swakopmund, before being transported to Conceptionwater.

Eerie
As we drive back to Walvis Bay, it’s high tide. As the dunes meet the sea at Langewand, we are treated some 4x4 in the dunes for a large part of the journey. Luckily Len knows this area like the back of his hand and we soon find ourselves cruising over the so-called Golden Highway. As the sun begins to set, we reach Walvis Bay.
Our cellphones are beeping almost non-stop. I sigh. We truly are back in civilization.
The Shipwrecks & Diamonds Tour is more than just a unique trip; it’s an adventure and a once in a life experience. Few people on earth ever get to see what the diamond pioneers of yesteryear accomplished. But in a few years’ time very little if anything at all will be left of these historic artifacts. I for one am truly grateful that I still got to see this part of Namibia’s history, which deserves more attention.