Into the blue yonder of the Western Cape

A region of great beauty and diversity, wedged between massive never-ending mountain ranges, waits to be discovered east of Cape Town. We plan to drive along the coast to Mossel Bay, then north to Oudtshoorn and return on the Route 62.
Our first stop is Witsand. Some 10 km east of Swellendam we turn south onto the R324, a well-kept gravel road with lots of sheep on both sides. We have never been to Witsand on the Breede River mouth, or to Malgas or Infanta. Witsand, less than 300 km east of Cape Town, is a tranquil little seaside village with about 700 permanent residents. During ho-lidays the number easily doubles, and small wonder: this place is called Witsand for good reason and apart from the long stretch of unspoilt white beach and dunes there is also the lagoon at the river mouth, while the river itself offers endless opportunities for leisure activities. The Breede is recognized as the best fishing estuary in the country. Add to this the location on the slightly elevated riverbank and glorious views of the sea and the river. And what a place for whale watching - if ever there was one! It makes Hermanus, the Whale Ca-pital of the World, look positively starved of whales. As we enjoyed a late lunch at The Anchorage, whale fins kept waving at us. More than a dozen of the big mammals were close to the shore that day. This beach restaurant has a telescope on its roof terrace and it is not unusual to see six dozen whales! The locals proudly tell you that whales are counted from the air at regular intervals. So far, the biggest number was spotted a few years ago when almost 200 whales were frolicking in St Sebastian Bay, next to the De Hoop Nature Reserve which is another hotspot of whales and other precious creature. The tiny village of Infanta is situated almost directly opposite Witsand, but even though the two are separated only by the river they are not connected by road. You have to drive 30 km back to Malgas to cross the river. A pontoon is still in o-peration there.
Surprisingly there is another little hamlet right next to Witsand on the river. Its grand name, Port Beaufort, is rarely found on a map, even though there is more holiday accommodation, some of it quite luxurious. And there is an intriguing story.
An enterprising British merchant by the name of Joseph Barry implemented what the go-vernor of the Cape, Lord Charles Somerset, hoped to achieve when he named the place after his father, the Duke of Beaufort, in 1817. Five years later Barry chartered a ship and brought supplies from Cape Town to the Overberg region which was suffering from a severe drought and at that time was still difficult to reach by ox-wagon. Barry set up a very successful business with two nephews who joined him from England and Port Beaufort became a busy harbour for about 40 years. Imagine that! It is probably safe to assume that the Breede River used to be a larger river then, before dams were built in ten of its tributaries. Port Beaufort lost its significance and purpose when the railway line and roads were built through the Overberg at the beginning of the 20th century.
To the start of the Garden RouteFrom Witsand it is 35 km of tar road through a beautiful countryside of red soil, green fields and coastal spring flowers back north to the N2 and to Heidelberg - a name famous for a romantic old town centre and a medieval castle on the Neckar River in south-western Germany. Sadly, Heidelberg in the Western Cape does not show its best side to the N2 traveller - who therefore doesn't feel any urge to stop in this little town on the Duiwenhoks River, even though Heidelberg boasts two nature reserves and does have its share of historic buildings and charming guest houses.
Riversdale at the foot of the Langeberg Mountains also deserves a closer look, but we continue to Albertinia. Dinners at the local hotel apparently were so famous early last century that mail ship passengers were brought from Mossel Bay to enjoy the culinary delights. We take time for refreshments on the terrace lined by bougainvilleas in flaming colours and are impressed with the attentive service.
Driving into Mossel Bay on the N2 is a real disappointment. The first impression is not much different from the one that visitors to Cape Town get after leaving the airport on their way to the city centre. Mossel Bay is supposed to be the start of the much acclaimed Garden Route and we expected the town to live up to this honour somehow. Instead, you could easily be persuaded to give it a miss, and that is exactly what we did that afternoon. We drove on to Hartenbos, a
popular holiday village of 7de Laan fame where we had booked accommodation for the night. Of course we returned to Mossel Bay the next morning, determined to see the centre of town and especially the Bartholomew Diaz museum complex at the harbour. The Portuguese navigator is thought to be the first European who sailed into the bay in 1488, on his quest to open a sea route to India around the southern tip of Africa. Two month earlier he also cast anchor at Walvis Bay, Spencer Bay and Elisabeth Bay on the Namibian coast, and on the return journey in Lüderitz as well. In celebration of the 500th anniversary of this achievement a replica of his caravel sailed from Lisbon in 1988. In the meantime a museum had been built in Mossel Bay to house the entire little ship. Interestingly, another museum built for a whole ship - the Vasa, a 17th century Swedish man-of war - was inaugurated two years later in Stockholm. In return, elegant houses which look distinctly Scandinavian with their wooden cladding in pastel colours can be found at the seafront below the Cape St Blaize Lighthouse. Dating back to 1864, it sits high above the cliffs of the Point and is open to visitors. Just below is a large cave which seems to be inhabited by a huge family of dassies. We are happy to see that Mossel Bay has an attractive centre. Among the historic buildings is Santos Pavilion, built in 1906 and the only remaining pavilion on the South African coast.
Ostrich steak, Karoo Lamb and PortWe are on our way again, more or less straight north on the R328 to Oudtshoorn, 85 km away, through green fields and pastures on rolling hills with clusters of conifers. It is a fresh morning with a whiff of moist soil in the crisp air. If it weren't for occasional blue gums and a troop of baboons one might be forgiven for imagining oneself in the foothills of the Alps. Soon the Outeniqua Mountains, previously a blue silhouette against the horizon, are looming large and we start to climb Robinson Pass, the first of a number of spectacular passes on this trip. This impressive mountain range is a hikers' paradise. Numerous signs indicate nature reserves, campsites and various trails.
On the other side of the 'great divide' the vegetation changes almost abruptly. No more conifers but hardy shrubs, thorn trees, lots of aloes, man-size prickly pear and at last: ostriches! Among South Africa's many 'capitals' of something or other Oudtshoorn is the Ostrich Feather Capital of the World. About 150 years ago ostrich feathers were suddenly a sought-after fashion item and became South Africa's 4th most important export. According to estimates, 450 tons of feathers were exported per year at the height of the feather boom. Some farmers in this area, dubbed the 'ostrich barons', became very wealthy. The boom ended with the outbreak of World War I, but during the past 30 years ostrich farming has made a comeback - not so much for feathers, but more for meat and leather.
Highgate is the oldest of several ostrich show farms around Oudtshoorn. It was opened to the public in 1938, though the farm itself dates back to 1902. Vi-sitors can watch ostrich races, sit or ride on an ostrich themselves, hold a chick or stand on an egg, or just learn more about this amazing big bird and the farm on a regular tour. The old farmhouse, almost hidden by enormous pepper trees, now houses a restaurant. Guess what's on the menu... Of course there is also a shop with irresistible leather goods and feathers and dusters in all colours and sizes. Yes, the ostrich feather boa is making a comeback, too!
Oudtshoorn is an elegant little town which offers far more than ostrich farms and pro-ducts. Set between the Outeniqua Mountains and the Groot Swartberge, not far from the famous Cango Caves, it is fully geared for tourism. There are game lodges and holiday farms where you can even ride camels or walk with wild meerkat.
We follow the signs to some of the grand old 'Feather Palaces', built from sandstone during the feather boom, and we visit the Langenhoven Museum in Jan van Riebeeck Street. Cornelis Jacobus Langenhoven (1873-1932), best known for writing the lyrics of Die Stem, was Oudtshoorn's most famous citizen.
Now it is time for us to head west again. For the return trip to Cape Town we have chosen the R62, marketed as Route 62 or the 'longest wine route in the world', all the way from Cape Town to Port Elisabeth (800 km). Route 62 connects a string of farming towns north of the N2 and for much of the way runs through magnificent landscapes of mountains, orchards and vineyards. It is also an area of mountain passes galore, which at va-rious intervals offer the opportunity to return on to the N2 or to drive north on to the N1.
We don't have far to go, just 40 km to Calitzdorp, which proudly calls itself the 'Gem of the Klein Karoo' as well as the Port Capital of the World. A gem it definitely is! We booked accommodation at the Dorpshuis, the town's first restaurant and B&B: lovely bedrooms, friendly and efficient service, an excellent restaurant. The only problem is what to choose! Ostrich or lamb, for which the Karoo is famous, and which of the many lamb dishes is the most mouth-watering? When the decision is finally made we try wine from the local cellars and finish the wonderful dinner with local port. No less than four Calitzdorp wine-ries produce port, hence the Port Capital. Calitzdorp even boasts a spa, some 30 km south of the town, on the Worcester Fault which is dotted with hot springs.
Where the echoing crags resoundA few kilometres out of Calitzdorp we cross the Huisrivier Pass. Once again, Langenho-ven's famous lines come to mind: "oor ons ewige gebergtes, waar die kranse antwoord gee" (over everlasting mountains where the echoing crags resound). He was born in this inspiring area, on a farm in the Hoeko Valley near Ladismith.
We aren't tired of passes and echoing crags yet and decide that we must venture into Seweweekspoort. For the uninitiated: this is not a pass, but a spectacular drive right through the Klein Swartberge which tower massively next to the narrow gravel road. The forces of nature which folded them are very much in evidence. There are also rare protea species, pools of water, picnic spots and even accommodation facilities. After 17 km the mountains are suddenly behind you and if you wanted to, you could continue north, to the N1, or east into the Groot Swartberge.
Back at the R62 we take a look at the old church at Amalienstein, a former mission station established in 1850 by missionaries from Berlin who had worked at close-by Zoar for the South African Mission Society. They named the new place after their benefactress, Baroness Amalie von Stein.
When it came to naming places, 19th century colonialists displayed an amazing lack of i-magination, or perhaps they were totally vain. Just about all the Cape's governors strived to immortalize themselves and their spouses plus various family members by the names they gave to the new little towns and villa-ges. Place names on the Route 62 are an example in point. Ladismith was established in 1852 and named after Lady Juana Smith, the Spanish wife of Sir Harry Smith who was governor of the short-lived Province of Queen A-delaide (Eastern Cape) in 1835 and became go-vernor of the Cape in 1847. Ladysmith in Natal is named after the same Lady Juana. Reputedly she sent a bible and ten pounds to the community of newly-founded Ladismith. The town is the centre of an extensive fruit farming area. It also boasts two cheese factories, Ladismith and Parmalat. Local outlets sell their products at prices which were last seen in Cape Town shops four years ago.
From the orchards of Ladismith the R62 continues through typical dry and sparse Karoo landscape to Barrydale - named after Joseph Barry, the merchant of Port Beaufort shipping fame. After two thirds of the way you pass Warmwaterberg, a small spa on a hill overlooking bleak plains and other hills. There are accommodation facilities with a restaurant and a camping site. The hot springs of Warmwaterberg are part of a private farm.
Our next overnight stop is Montagu, which has been famous for its hot thermal springs for decades. They are a little distance out of town and a sizeable bath complex with hotel has developed around them. Montague is a very charming place, full elegant accommodation facilities and cosy restaurants. And full of national monuments: well-preserved beautiful houses from Victorian and Georgian times, most of them on Long Street. Just out of Montagu, the road to Robertson leads through Cogmans Kloof, another masterpiece by Thomas Bain who tirelessly opened up the Cape with his brilliant road engineering work. This stretch of road actually includes a tunnel and a Hole in the Rock.
In the heart of the wine countryRobertson is a busy but attractive town, the heart of the Robertson Wine Route which is the Cape's largest wine producing area under irrigation. This is also the best-known part of the Breede River Valley. We have driven full circle and want the see the river far from its mouth. But finding it is a different story! There is not a single sign on the main road and after a little sightseeing in the residential area, where long straight streets are lined with jacarandas and point to the Langeberg Mountains, we actually have to ask for directions. "Drive about 15 km and turn right at Viljoensdrift". Sounds easy enough and before we know it we are on the much acclaimed Robertson Wine Route, where wine estates lie side by side. Palm trees grow along the road in neat rows, there are
patches of pink peach blossoms between the vines and flowers in front of the houses. It is incredibly beautiful. At Viljoensdrift we can't imagine that the track to the right is open to the public and continue. There are no other possibilities to turn to the right, however, until we are in Bonnievale, the Valley of Cheese and Wine, and the prettiest main road where dazzling bougainvilleas spill heavily from every garden. A camping sign points into the direction where the river should be and at last we are there! The Breede River is not wide here at all, but wide enough for the River Goose, a rather top-heavy vessel which glides up and down between Kolgans west of Robinson and a picnic site past Bonnievale. These trips for two dozen adults at a time are extremely popular.
After lunch in Robertson we drive back to Viljoensdrift and turn onto the unlikely track to a tranquil spot on the river, Goose and all.
All that remains now is a visit to McGregor, 30 km south of Robertson. This quaint little town, where time seems to have stood still, is best known for the winery of the same name. Artists have 'discovered' McGregor and there are at least five art galleries plus a pottery. Something unusual is the donkey sanctuary.
This was the last stop on a wonderful trip, now we are headed straight home. Near Worcester a strong wind is blowing dark clouds over the mountains and for once we rather drive through the Huguenot Tunnel than over Du Toit's Kloof Pass. Paarl receives us with a drizzle.