Mamili National Park, surely the jewel in the Caprivi region's crown

Just as the Caprivi region is oft referred to as Namibia's wetland paradise, then surely Mamili National Park can rightly claim to be the jewel in that crown. For this Park perhaps stands alone when compared to all other Protected Areas in the country. It not only forms the largest wetland area with conservation status in Namibia; it is wild, it is untrammelled, it is pristine nature at its scintillating best, but moreover it can often be indundated with extreme water levels, a wonderful sight in this predominantly arid, desertified land.

The Park was officially proclaimed on 1st March 1990; just twenty days before Namibia gained her long-awaited Independence, after such a challenging but worthwhile struggle. The Park's chosen title Mamili bears reference to the seven Chiefs of that name who, since 1864, have ruled over the Mafwe peoples living in this eastern section of the Caprivi Region. Known locally as the Litunga, and historically referred to as Kings, these Chiefs are installed as both traditional and political leaders of the tribe. The three most recent Chiefs have been Richard Muhinda Mamili (1971-1987), Boniface Bebi Mamili (1987-1998) and George Simasiku Mamili VII, from 1999 to the present day. There is currently, however, strong opposition to the name Mamili from local communities living in the Wuparo and Malengalenga Conservancies bordering the Park. They would rather the Park be called Nkasa/Rupara - the names of the two major Islands within the proclaimed area - and have, against the wishes of the Directorate of Parks and Wildlife Management (DPWM) in the Ministry of Tourism and Environment (MET) altered the local directional signs! Rupara, by the way, is the local Mayeyi term; others, including some maps, name it as Lupala.
Presently there is only one access route into Mamili NP. From Kongola on the B8 tar road, turn onto the D3511 (MR125) gravel road, now being re-classified as the C49, and travel south for approximately 70 kms. Turn right and pass through Sangwali Village, taking the available left forks twice thereafter. This will lead you through the Wuparo Conservancy to a bridge constructed by local entrepeneur (and character) Linus Mukwata. The track(s) wind on, avoiding any waterlogged areas to a second Mukwata built bridge close to the Park boundary and the MET Ranger Station at Shisinze that stands just a few hundred metres further on. All visitors must report to the office upon arrival and purchase the necessary Park permit. A 4x4 vehicle is essential for travel within Mamili NP. The extremely helpful MET staff can provide you with both hand-drawn and GPS reference maps of the Park, together with expert local advice on which areas are accessible. The MET staffs remit to carry out patrols within the Park, for the purposes of game monitoring, game counting and to control poaching is hampered by the very wetlands themselves. George Sakutuka, a Senior Ranger stationed at Shisinze in Mamili now for over 6 years and 16 years with the MET, explains: "Historically, cycles of wet or drier periods can last 20 years or more; a wet cycle seemingly commenced in 2005, with channels being fed and filled by strong waters from the Kwando River. Presently it is not possible to reach the areas around Nkasa, Ionego, Shivumba and Mumba except on foot. To reach Nkasa, my staff and I need to wade through 12 channels; the dangers are obvious. A boat is badly needed to allow us to carry out our duties correctly, completely and safely." George added "Mr Ben Beytell, the Director of DPWM in Windhoek, has confirmed that such equipment will be supplied to us at Shisinze".

The vegetation type in Mamili is classified as Caprivi Floodplain. It is a lush riverine environment; dominated by Dry Mamili grasslands in the northern section of the Park and Wet Mamili grassland to the south together with numerous braided floodplain channels, oxbow lakes, extensive reed beds and papyrus swamps. Riparian woodlands, most pronounced on the raised islands in the Park, particularly Nkasa and Rupara, include species such as Diospyros mespiliformis (Jackal-berry), Kigelia africana (Sausage Tree), Acacia galpinii (Monkey-thorn), Acacia hebeclada (Candle-pod Acacia), Acacia erioloba (Camel-thorn), Albizia versicolor (Poison Pod Albizia), Philenoptera violacea (Rain Tree), Terminalia sericea (Silver Terminalia), Combretum imbebre (Leadwood) Garcinia Livingstonei (Lowveld Mangosteen) and Acacia Nigrescens (Knob-thorn). The Kwando and Linyanti Rivers form the majority of the Park's boundaries (Kwando- West, Linyanti - South and East), with only the northen border abutting the grasslands of the Wuparo and Malengalenga conservancies. The entire area is, like the rest of the Caprivi Region, extremely flat.
These Mamili wetlands - where as much as 80% to 90% of the Park can become flooded, and therefore extremely difficult to access, after rains and during cyclical wet periods - provide a wonderful habitat for both wildlife and birdlife. It is estimated that there are some 560 Hippopotami and perhaps 500 Crocodiles in the Park (Stander, 2004); rare antelope species found here include Sitatunga, Puku, Red Lechwe, Reedbuck and Oribi. There are close to 1000 Buffalo in Mamili, the largest concentration in the entire country. Herds of up to 300 of these animals are not uncommon. Elephant, Lion, Roan Antelope, Common Impala, Kudu, Warthog, Spotted-necked Otters, Rock Monitor & Water Monitor Lizards, Lion, Leopard, Hyaena, Baboon and African Wild Dog represent just some of the other wildlife present in Mamili. The prolific birdlife found in the Park is simply magnificent; it might be possible to spot one of the rare breeding pairs of Wattled Cranes together with Slaty Egret, Stanley's Bustard, Pink-throated Longclaw,Dickinson's Kestrel, Allens Gallinule, Lesser Jacana, Black-winged & Red-winged Pratincoles, Long-toed Lapwing, Luapula Cisticola, Coppery-tailed Coucal and Black Coucal. 430 different species have been recorded, none more dazzlingly striking than the Southern Carmine Bee-eater perhaps.

A real wilderness experience awaits those who travel to visit Mamili National Park. Visitors must drive a 4x4 vehicle, preferably equipped with recovery equipment. Those choosing to stay overnight or longer must be totally self-sufficient, for there are no facilities whatsoever in the Park. There are no time strictures for visits, but park fees must be either pre-paid, at the MET offices in either Katima Mulilo or Windhoek (Ruhr Street, Northern Industria) or upon arrival. There are two areas designated for camping, one at Mparamura (known also as Nzalu), the other - if reachable, dependent on water levels in the channels that the access track crosses en route - at Lyadura. The latter is an extremely pretty, well shaded spot right on the banks of the Kwando. Do remember that the collection of firewood inside the Park is not permitted, so take everything with. Fishing is not allowed in Mamili either.The obliging, knowledgeable staff at Shisinze will update you on which tracks are driveable and which areas are accessible at the time of your visit. For your own wellbeing and safety, do heed their advice. The game and bird viewing in this magnificent wetland paradise should prove both remarkable and rewarding. For those wanting to access those really wet areas beyond the reach of their 4x4s, it is worth contacting Hakuna Matata Adventures in Katima Mulilo, whose owner Keith Rooken-Smith, a real Mamili fundi, can organise accompanied Park visits that will reach the most remote areas on foot. Mamili is in a malaria endemic area, so do consult your GP before your trip, and take all necessary precautions. Those who have sat under a Jackal-berry tree at Lyadura, watched the nearby hippos spalshing in the river and heard the haunting cry of an African Fish Eagle overhead will surely carry that special memory forever. However, any possible increase in tourism activities, including any mooted accommodation structures needs to be carefully assessed and planned in order to retain the natural balance of this wetland eco-region. Income from properly managed tourism in Mamili could, of course, greatly benefit and add value to the Park in the longer term. Prudent supervsion and allocation of funding by the MET remains essential to the future well-being of the magnificent Mamili National Park.

Neil Digby-Clarke
Mamili fact fileProclamation Date:
1st March 1990.
Size:
320 km2.
Rainfall:
600 - 700 mm per annum (variable).
Temperature:
5ºC - 35ºC.
Altitude: 1000 m above sea level (+/- 60m).
Vegetation type:
Caprivi Floodplain.