My first riding lesson
If you intend to experience Namibia's vastness from the lofty heights of a horse's back you really have to know how to ride. AZ staffer Marco Mach tried his luck in the desert - and returned brimming with enthusiasm. He even wants to take regular lessons...
'Us, the good people' is what 'Taino' means in one of the Native-American languages. Taino happens to be the name of my horse and it also seems to be the theme of our ride this evening. Because surely, if we - horse wo-man Katrin Baufeldt and myself - weren't good people the thunderstorm and downpours would have continued. But the clerk of the weather turned off the tap for the exact two hours of the ride and cast a glorious sunset onto the sky.
Let me start at the beginning.
I am at a lodge called Desert Homestead and Horsetrails which sits in a grassy landscape on the edge of the Namib Desert, some 31.5 km southeast of Sesriem on the C19. The lodge not only offers accommodation to tourists, but also keeps horses: no less than 20, most of them anything but thoroughbred, including four foals. And Taino. "This is your horse", says Katrin Baufeldt, who takes care of the animals, and points to a nine-year-old crossbreed of a yellowish-brown colour. Taino is trained for greenhorns like myself, I am told, and thus makes it possible that even raw amateurs are able to experience Namibia's vastness from the lofty heights of a horse's back.
Mounting the horse works out just fine, and by nudging his flank I get him going with equal ease. Katrin and Mon Cherie, her six-year-old mare of Haflinger and Arab descent, are slowly walking in front, the two of us following behind. But not for long. Taino decides to stop. To just stand there. He refuses to be nudged on. "Great start", I think. "It has to do with the stones on the ground", explains Katrin. "Taino has a problem with his hoof and the blacksmith keeps us waiting". She gets Taino and me going again.
We continue along the fence and finally come to Taino-friendly sandy ground. While the horses stick to a leisurely walk, Katrin points to a tree with a large nest built by weaver birds. "Cape cobras love to raid these nests", she says. Katrin, born in Windhoek, is 19 years old. In keeping with the family tradition she started riding when she was eight - her parents run a horse equipment shop in
Windhoek. Desert Homestead and Horsetrails is the only lodge in the area which offers horseback riding. "The lodges in the vicinity refer their guests to us", says Katrin. Participants sign a form to confirm that they are aware of the risks and on which they state whether they are a beginner, a seasoned rider or somewhere in between. Then a suitable horse is chosen - and off they go. Children as young as five years are welcome to join the ride, but they are lead by the rein and secured with an additional belt. Children under five can ride in the usual circle on the lunge.
"Shall we go a little faster now?" Katrin asks over her shoulder. "Why not", I reply nonchalantly, "just tell me what I have to do". Right there and then I have my first riding lesson, starting with trotting. I 'simply' have to adjust to the rhythm of the horse and alternate between lifting and lowering myself, Katrin explains, adding that I could take my cue from one of the horse's shoulders, for example. So here we go for real. But I get so much shaken about that I am nowhere near getting the hang of when to lift my bottom and when to sit. Stop and try again. And what do you know, I'm doing better already. Finally, at the third attempt, everything seems to fall into place and I am able to adapt to Taino's rhythm. I am able to ride!
The business idea of offering horseback riding has turned out to be a success. This is reflected by the fact that the lodge is being expanded now. The manager, Nico Barkhuizen, tells me that a similar lodge is due to open further south, at the Fish River, in August. At the same time a new guesthouse will be inaugurated in Windhoek, albeit without horses. But another possibility for horseback excursions in the wilds is Grootberg Lodge in the north, west of Kamanjab. Desert Homestead Lodge has been at the current site for three years; previously it operated on a smaller plot in the vicinity for five years.
Cantering is easier, says Katrin. I just have to press my legs against the horse and myself firmly into the saddle. No sooner said than done. And right she is. Firmly pressed into the saddle I glide through the grass on Taino's back. "That really looked good", says my 'teacher' about my first canter. Well, I am willing to take her word for it.
By now night is falling. The setting sun breaks through the thunderclouds above the surrounding mountains in the most dazzling display of colours. This is how you pictured yourself cowboy-like in the Wild West. We ride back to the stable in the dark, through a dry riverbed past other horses which have already been sent out to pasture, among them Mon Cherie's foal. On the last stony stretch of the way Taino picks his steps very slowly again. But we are back before the next cloudburst. For the remainder of the evening it's pouring. As I was saying: "us, the good people". Thank you, Taino.
Appendix:Desert Homestead and Horsetrails consists of 20 double chalets, each with a private veranda to relax after a strenuous day among the highest dunes on earth (Sossusvlei). The rate for a double room and breakfast for two is N$ 1200. A one-hour horseback excursion costs N$ 250 per person; a sunset ride from about 17h00 until 21h00 costs N$ 450 and includes drinks and snacks. A guided tour with overnight camping is available for experienced riders at N$ 2000 per person. Other activities: daytrip to Sossusvlei, hiking or ballooning.
Phone 00264-63-68 31 03, email [email protected], web www.deserthomestead-namibia.com
Similar offers (e.g.): horseback excursions are also available in Gondwana Cañon Park east of the Fish River Canyon (the hourly rate is N$ 195 per person).
See www.gondwana-canyon-park.com. For horseback safaris visit www.reitsafari.com
'Us, the good people' is what 'Taino' means in one of the Native-American languages. Taino happens to be the name of my horse and it also seems to be the theme of our ride this evening. Because surely, if we - horse wo-man Katrin Baufeldt and myself - weren't good people the thunderstorm and downpours would have continued. But the clerk of the weather turned off the tap for the exact two hours of the ride and cast a glorious sunset onto the sky.
Let me start at the beginning.
I am at a lodge called Desert Homestead and Horsetrails which sits in a grassy landscape on the edge of the Namib Desert, some 31.5 km southeast of Sesriem on the C19. The lodge not only offers accommodation to tourists, but also keeps horses: no less than 20, most of them anything but thoroughbred, including four foals. And Taino. "This is your horse", says Katrin Baufeldt, who takes care of the animals, and points to a nine-year-old crossbreed of a yellowish-brown colour. Taino is trained for greenhorns like myself, I am told, and thus makes it possible that even raw amateurs are able to experience Namibia's vastness from the lofty heights of a horse's back.
Mounting the horse works out just fine, and by nudging his flank I get him going with equal ease. Katrin and Mon Cherie, her six-year-old mare of Haflinger and Arab descent, are slowly walking in front, the two of us following behind. But not for long. Taino decides to stop. To just stand there. He refuses to be nudged on. "Great start", I think. "It has to do with the stones on the ground", explains Katrin. "Taino has a problem with his hoof and the blacksmith keeps us waiting". She gets Taino and me going again.
We continue along the fence and finally come to Taino-friendly sandy ground. While the horses stick to a leisurely walk, Katrin points to a tree with a large nest built by weaver birds. "Cape cobras love to raid these nests", she says. Katrin, born in Windhoek, is 19 years old. In keeping with the family tradition she started riding when she was eight - her parents run a horse equipment shop in
Windhoek. Desert Homestead and Horsetrails is the only lodge in the area which offers horseback riding. "The lodges in the vicinity refer their guests to us", says Katrin. Participants sign a form to confirm that they are aware of the risks and on which they state whether they are a beginner, a seasoned rider or somewhere in between. Then a suitable horse is chosen - and off they go. Children as young as five years are welcome to join the ride, but they are lead by the rein and secured with an additional belt. Children under five can ride in the usual circle on the lunge.
"Shall we go a little faster now?" Katrin asks over her shoulder. "Why not", I reply nonchalantly, "just tell me what I have to do". Right there and then I have my first riding lesson, starting with trotting. I 'simply' have to adjust to the rhythm of the horse and alternate between lifting and lowering myself, Katrin explains, adding that I could take my cue from one of the horse's shoulders, for example. So here we go for real. But I get so much shaken about that I am nowhere near getting the hang of when to lift my bottom and when to sit. Stop and try again. And what do you know, I'm doing better already. Finally, at the third attempt, everything seems to fall into place and I am able to adapt to Taino's rhythm. I am able to ride!
The business idea of offering horseback riding has turned out to be a success. This is reflected by the fact that the lodge is being expanded now. The manager, Nico Barkhuizen, tells me that a similar lodge is due to open further south, at the Fish River, in August. At the same time a new guesthouse will be inaugurated in Windhoek, albeit without horses. But another possibility for horseback excursions in the wilds is Grootberg Lodge in the north, west of Kamanjab. Desert Homestead Lodge has been at the current site for three years; previously it operated on a smaller plot in the vicinity for five years.
Cantering is easier, says Katrin. I just have to press my legs against the horse and myself firmly into the saddle. No sooner said than done. And right she is. Firmly pressed into the saddle I glide through the grass on Taino's back. "That really looked good", says my 'teacher' about my first canter. Well, I am willing to take her word for it.
By now night is falling. The setting sun breaks through the thunderclouds above the surrounding mountains in the most dazzling display of colours. This is how you pictured yourself cowboy-like in the Wild West. We ride back to the stable in the dark, through a dry riverbed past other horses which have already been sent out to pasture, among them Mon Cherie's foal. On the last stony stretch of the way Taino picks his steps very slowly again. But we are back before the next cloudburst. For the remainder of the evening it's pouring. As I was saying: "us, the good people". Thank you, Taino.
Appendix:Desert Homestead and Horsetrails consists of 20 double chalets, each with a private veranda to relax after a strenuous day among the highest dunes on earth (Sossusvlei). The rate for a double room and breakfast for two is N$ 1200. A one-hour horseback excursion costs N$ 250 per person; a sunset ride from about 17h00 until 21h00 costs N$ 450 and includes drinks and snacks. A guided tour with overnight camping is available for experienced riders at N$ 2000 per person. Other activities: daytrip to Sossusvlei, hiking or ballooning.
Phone 00264-63-68 31 03, email [email protected], web www.deserthomestead-namibia.com
Similar offers (e.g.): horseback excursions are also available in Gondwana Cañon Park east of the Fish River Canyon (the hourly rate is N$ 195 per person).
See www.gondwana-canyon-park.com. For horseback safaris visit www.reitsafari.com
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