On Horseback through the Fish River Canyon

Even before setting off it becomes clear that this is a horseback safari of the special kind. A 4x4 takes us to Augurabis, the northernmost part of Gondwana Cañon Park in southern Namibia. The vehicle labours through rocky terrain, up and down slopes, along a dry river-bed, further into the harsh wilderness. In a valley with a gurgling spring, green reeds and tall trees we suddenly see an enchanted little house - the starting point of our adventure ride into the Fish River Canyon.

While sipping a welcome drink we are briefed by our riding guides Waldi Fritzsche, Telané Greyling and Manni Goldbeck. The first three days are spent around the upper canyon, some 40 km north of the main lookout point, an almost pristine area with not a living soul around. The following three days we cross the sweeping plains of Gondwana Cañon Park, partly at a canter. Game is plentiful there. Then it is another three days across barren plains and down into the enormous valley eroded by the Gariep/Orange River. Nights are spent in the open, in tents or in modest accommodations in the lap of nature. A supply team travelling by car joins us in the evenings to pitch the camp and take care of cooking.

It is evident that Waldi knows what she is talking about - through her company, Reit Safari Horse Trails, she has led horseback tours to Namibia's remote areas for 16 years. Her desert tour through the Namib is one of the most challenging and prestigious rides in the world. Telané, too, immediately inspires us with confidence. The PhD biologist is known for intensively studying the Wild Horses of the Namib for years. She has vast experience in handling horses. Manni Goldbeck for his part knows the canyon area like the back of his hand.
The next morning we are on our way - eight riders, ten horses and four mules. Each of us carries sufficient water, but otherwise only a small bag with necessities in order to reduce the strain on the horses. The first stage is relatively even and easy to negotiate - an ideal opportunity to get acquainted with horse and terrain. But later that day and during the following two days the route demands total concentration of everyone: steep paths, slippery rocks, stones, knee-deep sand. We often have to dismount and lead the horses by the reins.

The reward is to experience all the contrasts of nature: a spring lined with green in a barren landscape; soft hills followed by a sheer drop; from the viewing point at the canyon's rim into the gorge on a narrow zigzag path. The geological formations, the many enormous layers of rock bared by the Fish River and its tributaries, are overwhelming, too. In the evening the supply team welcomes us at the camp, already pitched thanks to tracks laid out painstakingly; even the off-road vehicles would not have made it without. Waldi, Telané und Manni decide to replace vehicles by mules in future. Much as we love nature we are somewhat relieved to catch sight of our enchanted house again at the end of the third day: after the previous nights in the open it seems like a luxury hotel.

During the next days the scenery is totally different, but no less impressive. East of the canyon, yellow savannah grass covers the sweeping plains and we fall into full canter at times. Now and then we spot springbok and kudu between quiver trees and euphorbia. From Cañon Mountain Camp we drive the 26 km to the canyon's main lookout point for sundowners - and to marvel at the winding system of the more than 500-metre-deep gorges in which we moved about earlier.The following day the canyon scenery presents another angle: we enjoy panoramic views from an elevated point in the slightly sloping, endless plain. After passing a mountain range we continue along deserted roads and across vast, sparsely ve-
getated plains until we finally approach the Gariep/Orange River valley. The last day turns into a series of highlights: the narrow King's Throne Canyon ends at a lookout point with the Gariep/Orange River, lined by deep green vineyards, far below. Shortly afterwards we have reached our destination. During supper at Norotshama Lodge we reminisce about our adventure ride.
And for the cherry on top we drive on to the Wild Horses of the Namib the next day: first along the Gariep/Orange River, then north to Aus. We stay at Klein-Aus Vista in Gondwana Sperrgebiet Rand Park and are taken for a sundowner drive into Namib Naukluft Park where the Wild Horses have lived for more than 90 years. A more beautiful ending to a horseback safari is hard to ima-
gine.

Schedule
19 to 31 August 2007
23 September to 5 October 2007
Fit and experienced riders only
Options
13 days: Canyon - Gariep/Orange River (1 day arrival, 10 days on horseback, 2 days to wind down)
8 days: Canyon - Cañon Mountain Camp (1 day arrival, 6 days on horseback, 1 day to wind down)
7 days: Cañon Mountain Camp - Orange River (1 day arrival, 4 days on horseback, 2 days to wind down)

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