'The place from which rain can be seen'

Once you have survived the 3 hour deep sand drive from the Khaudom Game Reserve and finally feel the familiar hardness of tarmac under your tyres again as you cross the Trans-Caprivi Highway at Katere, you can already palpably smell the Okavango River and sense the cosy hospitality of Shamvura a mere 10 kilometres away.

As you wave to the rural population on your way through the Kavango countryside you already look forward to the chorus of dogs greeting you as you pull up to the main bungalow under the big Jackelberry tree. And as you stretch your limbs and savour the view of the Okavango River meandering through the flood-plain below, Charlie and Mark Paxton, owners of this jewel of rustic country living, will come out personally to greet their guests.

To put it in a nutshell: Shamvura Camp is any nature lover's dream - a paradise for both bird and fish life; rural simplicity and genuine hospitality. Situated on a large sand-dune, it is one of the few high points along the Kavango River overlooking its extensive floodplains, a mere stone's throw from the confluence with the Cuito. Hence it's Rukwangali name: 'The place from which rain can be seen'. With some of the few remaining climax knobthorn (acacia nigrecens) forests on the property, the camp is perfectly situated for the close observation of two fascinating bio-spheres: The seasonally inundated sandy flood-plains of the Kavango River with its countless channels, sandbanks and islands, and the steep riparian forest fringes on the bank. Although Mark, an avid naturalist, is quick to point out, that being on the border to Angola is a distinct advantage, as almost no knowledge exists of the various critters attracted to such a dominant body of water. And so he often finds animals, insects and reptile species which are unknown elsewhere in Namibia; recently a baby Cape clawless otter (Aonyx capensis), no more than three months old, appeared on the door to his study and demanded attention. Mark patiently fed it non-stop for a couple of weeks, but found one morning it had decided to leave just as unannounced as it had arrived. Occasionally Mark will also find unknown species of fish or an undiscovered frog. These he'll carefully preserve and courier to various scientific faculties around the world to help with species identification.

Charlie on the other hand is actively involved with the rural communities of the surrounding region having encouraged a substantial following of craftsmen and women to produce various forms of localised craft, including basketry, jewellery and woodwork. Interested guests are encouraged to meet these people and see the way they produce their craft from the collection of raw materials through the production stages to the final articles. As part of her engagement in uplifting community economics, Charlie also hosts and exhibits the craft products for sale to the public.

Thus Shamvura not only offers a reprieve to Nature lovers who want to indulge their senses on birding, fishing, hiking and boat trips (all under the expert guidance of Mark who actively follows a tag and release as well as a intensive bird ringing program), but simultaneously allows you a first hand cultural experience of this fascinating region.

In fact even the kitchen and cleaning staff are encouraged to generate income outside their regular job-description. Kitchen hand, Ronelia, for instance tills an organic vegetable patch where she produces and sells some of the most succulent tomatoes and crispy lettuce heads you'll find anywhere. For a safari stop en route to and from the Caprivi this is a great way of replenishing your perishable stock of fruit and veg. But then to just drop in for a cup of coffee and a chat about the birds and bees is reason enough already.

Find out more about their luxury tree-top cottage or the en-suite tent secluded under a big Marula (Sclerocarya birrea) tree as well as all the activities under www.orusovo.com/shamvura or mail direct [email protected].