The Skeleton coast - a place, where time stood still

Erwin Leuschner

There is a sudden loud bang and my vehicle comes to a screeching halt. “Oh man, my back tyre has gone“, I whisper to myself and grip the steering wheel tighter as I scan my immediate surroundings for a safe stop as I move off the road. But there is no need to worry - it is a barren wasteland. This Mars-like world is the Namibian Skeleton Coast, but there is more to it than immediately meets the eye.

Namibias’ 1 579 kilometre long coastline is one of the most unique places in the world; it is where the Namib Desert meets the sea. While the cold Atlantic Ocean on the one hand is teeming with an abundance of fish, this treacherous desert on the other hand has claimed many a lost soul. The name Skeleton Coast is quite befitting as bones from various skeletons are all but a rare sight. “You mean this”, says the game ranger at the entrance of the Skeleton Coast Park and points to a big animal skull resting on the counter. “It’s from a rhino… been here for a while”, she adds and continues to fill in our entry permit. Under her breath she mumbles: “Remember, the gate closes at 19h00.” It is a little eerie.

We are entering the Skeleton Coast National Park from the most southern entrance with the gate being located at the mouth of the Ugab River. Here, at the permit office of the Ministry of Environment and Tourism, time has stood still for at least 50 years. The paint is peeling off the old buildings dating back to the pre-independence era. The Namibian flag, which is hoisted proudly every morning, has tattered ends. The hinges of the impressive entrance gates to the park, which sports the outlines of two human skulls, are worn-out and broken. Bright purple “vygies” planted at the front of the permit office add a touch of colour to this otherwise desolate environment.

As you follow the salt-road, which hasn’t been maintained by a grader in what must be an eternity, deeper into the park, you are likely to discover something exciting coming around each bend. Our first stop is the shipwreck “South West Seal”. It is said to have been a 90-ton South African fishing vessel that reportedly caught fire and beached here in 1976. Wooden flotsam, old fishing nets and a rusted engine block are scattered on the white, sandy beach. If it wasn’t for the engine block, this wreck would fit perfectly into a scene of the movie Pirates of the Caribbean.

The “South West Seal” is one of the more prominent shipwrecks still visible along the entire coastline to this day. The better known ones are found further south of the park and include the most recent victim of the skeleton coast, the trawler “Fukuseki Maru No. 7” as well as the trawler “Zeila” and the cargo ship “Eduard Bohlen”. Older shipwrecks like “Winston”, “Dunedin Star” and countless others have almost been completely lost to the harsh elements and are barely recognizable today.

Leaving the wreck you will discover another interesting feature of this part of the world. At the mouth of the Huab River a sizable lagoon has formed. It is a perfect place for bird watching. Flamingos, Cape cormorants and various other seabirds feed here and will not be disturbed by travellers stopping to watch or take a photo. Jackals frequent this area, but it is not always easy to spot these animals, which are perfectly disguised and fit in well with the desert environment.

From the lagoon you can easily spot another impressive feature of the park. Just visible on the horizon stands a massive, collapsed old oil drill rig, seemingly dumped in the middle of nowhere. Various urban legends surround this rusting structure. The most prominent one features a certain Mr du Preez, who had high hopes of finding oil under the desert sand. While the oil drill rig was being built the main cable apparently snapped resulting in the structure to collapse. On account of insufficient funding, the project and site were abandoned in 1972 - and no drill was ever used. This massive structure now serves as shelter for some animals and a nesting site for birds.

Further along you will come across countless other points of interest in the park, most notably the two overnight facilities Torra Bay and Terrace Bay - both are extremely popular amongst fishermen. Booking is essential though, especially at Torra Bay, where guests are only accepted during December and January. Going further north, the salt road leads up to Möwe Bay, where time has stood still too. In order to visit Möwe Bay you require a special permit and to proceed yet further right up to the mighty Kunene River’s mouth, you require another special permit so bring along a lot of time and very deep pockets. Few people have undertaken such a trip, but those who have done it, describe it as a trip of a lifetime.

I have in the meantime changed my vehicle’s tyre and am happy to head up to Terrace Bay, where I am certain to catch the big one. I peak back over my shoulder, watching the empty salt-road stretching up and beyond the horizon. The Skeleton Coast really is an eerie place, unique in so many ways. And an exciting place to visit.