Township Mondesa - welcomes with open arms and happy hearts

The taxi driver hoots bewildering, continuously. Most of the times he just wants to get the attention of possible passengers. At other times because another taxi stole his right of way and sometimes he's just greeting an old friend. It seems like taxi drivers have their own secret sign language and somehow people here appear to understand what they mean. The continuous hooting however is not the only sound; music is filling the air, people are singing and dancing to the beat. Neighbors are chit-chatting over their fences; housewives are calling their children while doing the laundry in big tubs in front of their doorsteps. Kids are laughing and playing soccer. Mondesa is never quiet. Not at daytimes, nor at night. Despite its surroundings, the solitude of the deserted Namib Desert and Namibia's endless amplitudes, the Township of Swakopmund is very much alive."Mondesa is a colorful place; full of friendly, positive people. Its cheerful heartbeat is infectious", says Elizabeth de Beer, manageress and founder of the Namibian tour facilitator African Desk in Swakopmund. Ten years ago, when Elizabeth established African Desk, tourists were also interested in the life of the Namibian townships. Right from the start people were positively surprised about the cheerful atmosphere and amused about the frantic activity. "At first I started to take tourists to Katutura (township of Windhoek). People were always interested how the community lived there and they would ask me about it repeatedly. So I took them in my free time. When I saw the positive effect it had on the visitors and the inhabitants of the township, I started to offer the tours on a regular basis", tells Elizabeth who herself has a strong connection to Katutura and Mondesa, because part of her family lives there. "I have a close connection with township-life, I look through the eyes of the residents and I want to share this insight with other people. My company is not called African Desk for nothing; I am the African behind the desk", says Elizabeth who assures, that the rumors about crime and danger in Mondesa are unfair prejudices. "People in Mondesa have a huge sense of hospitality and if you forget about your prejudices they will too and invite you into their homes. Of cause crime happens here, but so it does anywhere else", she says. Most people who had spent some time in the township can probably confirm her statement. If you dare to take a closer look, if you walk into Mondesa with a friendly smile; it will be returned happily. Many visitors find it surprising that the people in Mondesa are so very positive. Regardless of the little they own; dreams, hopes and lots of smiling are held high in this community. "I never had a negative experience on my township tours, not one single visitor was shocked and they always are positively amazed and want to come back all the time. The only problem I have is that my guests do not want to go home after the visit" Elizabeth tells laughing.

Prejudices about the sadness and dirtiness of the township often set people off the idea of visiting Mondesa. But according to Elizabeth, they quickly change their minds once they entered a real shack. "Most shacks look much better from the inside than from the outside. They are decorated, warm and clean homes", she says and adds: "I want to give people the chance to look behind the curtains and see the truth. Often they at first feel shy and uncomfortable to enter somebody else's home. But once they`ve experienced the openness and hospitality they quickly change their minds." Elizabeth is joining most of the tours. If she can't make it, her sister Uschi Malezki jumps in. The Township tour is taken in a real Mondesa Taxi. Visitors will experience culture, music, traditional healers, schools and kindergartens. Besides plenty to look at, guests will also be catered with home made food by Elizabeth's sister Uschi, who also lives in Mondesa. Elizabeth's sister apparently is most famous for her delicious potjie and warm freshly baked pot bread.
Often other residents of Mondesa come over to meet and greet the visitors and Elizabeth can never tell what will happen next. "We do not have a set schedule and above all, no time limit. I do the tours on special request and also I do value the type of personality my guest is. Sometimes we have such a good time that it could get pretty late." The township tours are Elizabeth's social project. Although the market for "Reality Holidays" is on the rise, she has no intention to make her own profit out of the tours. "The money the tourists give goes to the people in Mondesa who help making the visitors feel happy. "My reward is the joy I have, when I see the positive influence the experience has on my guests," Elizabeth confesses. As African Desks caters mainly for families, a lot of kids get the chance to see this life which is so different to their own. Elizabeth takes the kids to see schools, families and meet children their own age. She often encourages them to play along, joining in on the street soccer and other games that are common in the township. Kids will definitely not only enjoy the outing, but learn a lifelong lesson from this experience.
People, who think they have to feel constant pity and guilt when visiting Mondesa, will be proofed wrong. Although there is a lot of poverty seen, the community is not unhappy. Despite the lack of job-opportunities, the poor housing conditions and absence of luxury articles, there is a bigger soulfulness than in most of the wealthier parts of the town. Township tours are a win-win situation for both sides; visitors and residents. Both gain from each other; learning to see life through the eyes of somebody else, learning to respect each other, sharing hopes and dreams and most of all learning to value friendship, hospitality and community.

Sybille Muhle